Simple pattern jumpsuit: features of the construction drawing
Overalls - one of the most comfortable wardrobe items. Soft flying airy fabric, exquisitely twisted seductive curves and hides flawed figures, in combination with a special cut make the silhouette stunningly perfect. The pattern of the jumpsuit is built very easily and quickly, and therefore it is easier to sew such a thing on your own. It is about creating this garment and will be discussed further.
Stages of building a template
How is the pattern of coveralls female (summer version)? The process of developing a pattern can be divided into two stages: the construction of the bodice and the construction of pants. For each of the drawings, you need your own measurements of the figure, from which the whole work begins.
Measurements for the bodice and its construction
For the manufacture of the upper part of the suit you will need to measure the volume of the chest, waist and hips, as well as the width of the back, solution of chest tucks and its height, the length of the front shelf and back to the waist, shoulder width.
After, on the basis of these measurements, you should mark the base mesh, which is a quadrilateral with sides equal to the length of the top from the shoulder and to the required level, taking into account the overlap (if it is in the style) and chest girth + 2-7 cm for a free fit
Building a bodice
Next, the pattern of overalls, more precisely, its upper part, is constructed as follows:
- A grid is laid out in a rectangle: the breast line in accordance with the “breast height” measurement; waist line - according to the measurement values of the length of the back and front; line of the hips, which is located at a distance of 19-21 cm from the waist.
- After starting to develop the shoulder seams and neck: in the upper corners of the drawing retreat by 5-7 cm and draw the desired depth for the front and rear shelves. Next comes the turn of the shoulder seams, the edges of which are lowered from the upper border of the rectangle by 1 cm.
- At this stage it is necessary to decide the location of the tuck for the chest. If it closes vertically and enters the shoulder seam, then ½ part of the measure “solution of chest tucks” should be pulled back along the chest line and the bar perpendicular to the grid should be raised. He retracts it along the shoulder seam 2-3 cm and closes the triangle at the exit point of the perpendicular.The shoulder seam is extended to a closed distance. The construction of this stage is also necessary for tuck under the armhole, since to determine its depth, the template should be bent according to the constructed vertical tuck and cut in the armpit side seam until the workpiece is completely aligned.
- After all the manipulations, it remains only to build an armhole and draw a side seam. The armhole line is closed, rounding off all corners, and the sides - taking into account small tucks in the waist.
The pattern of the jumpsuit is good because it is constructed in the same way as the basic base of the dress and you can create many more things using it.
To build the bottom detail of the jumpsuit, you should take measurements such as waist and hip girth, upper leg girth, outer leg and inner seam length, and seat height. Here, also, for construction, one should draw a base mesh with the sides the length of the external seam and 1/2 of the hips circumference + 2 or 7 cm of allowance for loose fit. And after that you can proceed to the detailed drawing.
At first glance it may seem that this is a difficult task and the proper pattern of the jumpsuit will not work out with your own hands, but this is not so.Even a beginner can handle it. The construction process is as follows:
- On the upper side (on the circumference of the hips with allowances), the rectangle is divided in half and shifted from the center to the right by 2 cm (this will be the side external seam). Pull back down to 19-21 cm and draw horizontal (line of the hips).
- From the side seam, the thighs are laid to the left ½ of the “Girth of the upper leg” measure + half the increase for free fitting + 2 cm. The same is done in the other direction, but the last 2 cm is taken away. Down line down (inner sections of the leg).
- Next, proceed to the bantovye lines. From the beginning of the internal cut along the thigh line, the perpendicular is raised upwards in accordance with the height of the seat and the rear middle seam is outlined. It should pass along the left border of the rectangle, abruptly rounded off at the hip line and come to nothing at the point of the beginning of the inner cut of the leg. The middle front section is constructed starting from the thallium line and leading to the thigh line.
Everything, the pattern of overalls is ready!